The last four stops on your tour of St. George’s involve a bus ride.

St. David's Lighthouse
Stop 17 is Gates Fort,
right at the end of Cut
Road on the tip on the
peninsula. Take a
number 3 bus outward-
bound; it’s a
one-mile ride or an
easy walk. The scenery
along the way is
spectacular. If you
walk, take Barrack Road to the end of Cut Road, where you’ll
find the fort. You can visit any time you like; there are no formal
hours. It’s worthwhile to make the climb of the keep, if
only for the view of the channel. There are also a couple of
large guns up there that will provide an interesting photo
opportunity.
Gates Fort is a reconstruction of a small redoubt that was built on this site in the early 1600s. At one time it was a private home. The fort itself is not much, but the sea and shore are beautiful. If you’ve brought along a picnic, this is the place to eat it. Gates Fort is open daily and no admission is charged.
To reach Stop 18 you’ll need to return to St. George’s and
take a number 6 bus out to St. David’s Lighthouse, 441-
297-1642. (You’ll pass Stop 19, The Carter House, along the
way, but don’t worry, you’ll see it on the return trip.) The
small community of St. David’s, apart from the naval base
there, is one of the wildest and ost remote spots on th islands.
The locals, so islanders say, live in a world all their
own. Some of the residents have supposedly never even been
as far “abroad” as St. George’s.
The lighthouse at St. David’s is set at the highest point on
the eastern coast. It stands 208 feet above sea level and was
built in 1879 of Bermuda limestone. From the balcony high
above St. David’s Head, you’ll enjoy spectacular views of the
surrounding countryside, the Atlantic Ocean to the south,
Ruth’s Bay to the southwest, the South Shore, and St. David’s
and St. George’s to the north. If you saw the movie.
The Deep, you’ll be interested to
learn that this is the lighthouse
they used in the story. You’ll
also recall that they blew it up
at the end of the movie. Well, of
course, the one they destroyed
was only a replica; neat! The
lighthouse is open most days
during the summer, but call
ahead to check, 441-297-
1642.
From St. David’s, hop aboard
another number 6 bus and
head back in the direction of St. George’s. Stop 19 is the Carter House, located inside the naval base; ask the driver
to drop you off at the main gate.
The Carter House is one of the oldest homes in Bermuda. It
was built in 1640 by the descendants of Christopher Carter,
one of three men left behind on the islands when The Deliverance and The Patience sailed for Jamestown and the New
World in 1610.
Christopher Carter:
Carter was apparently something of a rogue. While
waiting for the ships to return from Jamestown, he
and two other men discovered a cache of ambergris
– an expensive product of the sperm whale used in
making perfume – washed up on the beach. The
three men conspired in what became known as the
“Ambergris Plot” to smuggle the stuff back to England,
where they planned to sell it. But Carter got
cold feet and, when the ships pulled into the harbour,
he turned his co-conspirators in to Governor
Moore. Carter remained on the islands and eventually
settled on Cooper’s Island, now a part of the
naval base.
The old house built by Carter’s descendants has been restored
almost to its colonial condition. The interior houses
antique furniture, artifacts and memorabilia, including a
fine old tavern table. The Carter House is open on Wednesdays
from 10 am until 3 pm and admission is free. Stop at
the main gate of the naval station and show a photo ID. You
might want to call ahead and double-check the opening
times, 441-297-1642.
The final stop, Stop 20, is the Bermuda Biological Station for Research. Take a number 6 bus from the Carter House
and ask the driver to drop you off at Ferry Reach, or take a
number 1, 3, 10 or 11 bus inbound to Hamilton from St.
George’s and, again, get off at Ferry Reach.
Scientists at the research station have been studying marine
life since 1903. The facilities are extensive and have been the
subject of several novels, the best-known of which was Beast by Peter Benchley of Jaws fame. The story, although somewhat
out of this world, gives some good insight as to the
goings-on at the facility.
The station has its own deep-water ocean research ship, 13
laboratories, a 250-seat lecture hall and an extensive library.
Guided tours of the facilities and grounds are conducted on
Wednesdays at
10 am. There’s
no charge for the
tour, which includes
coffee and
donuts, but donations
are welcome. 441-
297-1880.
Your tour of St.
George’s Parish
has touched only
the highlights;
there’s much more for you to see and do. Shopping in this little
community is good and varied, but on a smaller scale
than Hamilton. There are a number of restaurants and several
tiny back-street and courtyard shopping areas with
flowers, trees and benches.
If you don’t manage to see everything in one day, a return
visit is easy enough as buses run back and forth between
Hamilton and St. George from early in the morning until late
in the evening.